Biking around Salta in Northwestern Argentina

Biking around Salta in Northwestern Argentina


It was our plan to take a ride on the famous Tren a las nubes, which leaves westbound from Salta to the Puna de Atacama (Altiplano), climbing up to more than 4300 meters (14000 feet) above sea level. Since there exists no more cheap regular passenger service and in March there was not any ride available on the expensive tourist train, we decided to explore the area and the train route by rented bikes.


Travel agency Movi Track in Salta arranged a meeting with Analia, who supplied us with detailed information about where to sleep, where to get food etc.. In the evening Analia brought the bikes, tools, copies of maps and even bicycle luggage bags to our hostel.

For the reason of high flexibility with the stages of our journey we decided to carry full camping equipment (tent, sleeping bags, cooker, some food…) with us. According to the
distances between the places to get drinking water, we bought 10 litres of mineral water for two persons.

The next morning we followed Analia’s advice and took the bus to Campo Quichano (1500 m) at the foot of the mountains to avoid the heavy car traffic. Before having started we had to fix the first and luckily only flat tire of the whole trip. Routa nacional 51 climbs moderately along the river and the railroad tracks between steep hillsides with green forest. The first 20 kilometers are unpaved, after – beginning at the first switchback of the railroad – the road is paved. Except few trucks there wasn’t any traffic. With increasing height the flora changes, the forest is replaced by cardon cactus and silver shiny grass (Miscanthus). The views of the colorful erosion landscape, the flora and the wind coming from backwards made riding very pleasant in the Quebrada del Toro.



In Puerta Tastil (2675 m), after 60 kilometres, the road and the railroad track fork and the road gets slightly steeper. After 17 further kilometres we reached Santa Rosa de Tastil (3100 m), where we stayed for the night in a community house. For 16 pesos per person dormitory, hot shower and use of the kitchen are offered.

The next morning we visited the ruins of a preincan settlement nearby with excellent view into the valley. 24 km uphill in the village of Las Cuevas we could buy fresh bread and delicious home-made cheese of different stages of maturity, which gave us energy for the following 15 kilometres to the pass Abra Blanca (4080 m). There we met the railroad tracks again and had a great view over the Altiplano and the partly snow-covered mountains. On the last 24 km to San Antonio de los Cobres (3775 m), a mining town, the road soon turned into a not very well maintained gravel road, which in combination with the altitude and the wind blowing from the front made riding relatively strengeous.

We bought food and water, stayed in a hostel and had dinner in a restaurant. The next morning we took the bus 13 km back to the intersection of RN 51 and RN 40. From there we headed south on the small gravel road RN 40. The first slowly climbing 14 km led us past few farms. There was not much vegetation any more, only small dry bushes und some bunch grass (ichu). Then the final ascent to the pass Abra del Acay followed. For 16 km the road winded uphill with many u-turns. Now we sometimes had to shift the smallest gears. Besides the steepness of the road the little content of oxigen in the air reduced our average speed considerably. After seven hours we reached the pass with the altitude of 4895 meters above sea level.

The fantastic view over the scenic montane desert along the ride and on top was a great reward for all the efforts. During the following descent we were often inspired to take pictures of the astonishing scenery including the llamas coming nearby.



Although this is around kilometer 1300 of Ruta Nacional 40 leading down to Bariloche, we often had to cross small rivers, because bridges were swept away or even had not existed before. It is fun by bike and keeps the road free of passenger car traffic. Ten kilometers ahead of the village La Poma we camped by the river at a beautiful location (3200 m). Despite the high altitude it was relativlely mild and thousands of cactus and Miscanthus-gras in the valley and along the hillsides. There are first settlements just a few kilometers further.




The next day we got up very late, so we arrived in La Poma just in time for lunch in a restaurant. We went on through Valles Calchaquies - a beautiful landscape with red rocks and a nice place to relax - always following the river downstream. 15 km ahead of Payogasta the valley widened and a nasty wind started blowing from the front, which in conbination with the bumpy road made this section seem endlessly. It was a bit anoying.The last 14 km to Cachi went by much faster, they were even paved.

In Cachi we stayed on the excellent Camping Municipal (including a swimming pool). During a stroll through the town we enjoyed the special atmosphere of Cachi.

Since we were running out of time, we took a collectivo back to Salta the next (5th) day. Therefore we missed to bike the pass Piedra del Molino and the sequent beautiful 2000 m descent at Cuesta del Obispo. What a pity.

This trip was undoubtedly an incredible an very impressive part of our Argentina-trip.
It was an unforgettable experience.

Thank you, Analia
Felix & Ulrike
March 2003